Vignerons in Burgundy have what comes close to being an ideal life. Their work covers almost every area of expertise. They must be highly sophisticated farmers, talented chemists, company managers, public relations spokesmen and efficient salesmen. They work indoors and out. They are tied to both local traditions and international commerce. Few producers have more than thirty hectares – that is, some sixty acres – of vineyards. With that they are millionaires, richer than most corporate presidents. Some years will be wonderful and others disastrous, but the stock of aging wine in their cellars will give them financial stability. It is one of the most agreeable, varied and remunerative small businesses in the world. And yet, in family after family, the children, on inheriting, rent out their vineyards on long leases and go off to become corporate employees, teachers or civil servants. To be employed, even with a lower potential income, is to be respectable. To work for oneself is looked down upon.

We fly back tomorrow morning…